A Weekend in Vichy ; The Queen of Spa Towns

Spending a weekend in Vichy was a long-held wish. A few days are enough to discover the charm of the queen of spa towns.

Vichy ; The Queen of Spa Towns

A Little History

Nestled in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region, Vichy is a historic town in the south-east of the Allier department. Once called Vichy-les-Bains, this charming town stretches along the banks of the Allier. It lies at the crossroads of the Limagne bourbonnaise and the foothills of the Montagne bourbonnaise. Since Antiquity, Vichy has been known for its healing thermal springs, which fuelled its growth in the 19th century. Its history also remains marked by the period from 1940 to 1944, when it was the seat of the government of the French State.

In 2021, Vichy joined the UNESCO World Heritage List, among the Great Spa Towns of Europe. It sits alongside Baden-Baden, Bath and Spa, among others. Napoleon III stayed there five times between 1861 and 1866. His visits transformed the town, which gained parks, chalets and wide avenues. This prestigious past can still be read on every street corner during a weekend in Vichy.

A Weekend in Vichy

Day 1 ; Arriving for a Weekend in Vichy

Four hours of driving separate Lausanne from Vichy, reached at the end of the day. A flat right in the town centre, booked on Booking, serves as a base. A good night’s sleep prepares for discovering the town in the best conditions.

Day 2 ; A Historic Morning

A Stroll in the Town Centre

Camera in hand, the visit begins with breakfast at Alexis Ladvie. This pastry shop in the centre offers a lovely assortment of treats. A few steps along Rue du Président-Roosevelt then lead to the Parc des Sources. On one side stand the Palais des Congrès and the casino, on the other the Hall des Sources.

The visit begins with the Hall des Sources, a true architectural gem. It was built in the early 20th century to plans by Charles Le Cœur. Inspired by German and Austro-Hungarian spa towns, the architect brought together the park’s great springs there. In 1928, Charles Letrosne modernised it by adding windows and a central glass roof, which bathe the space in light. The Palais des Sources was inaugurated on 16 May 1928. In 1971, the Parc, Hôpital and Célestins springs completed this iconic place.

Under the hall, visitors taste the water from the different springs, each with its own taste and temperature. Some highly mineralised waters surprise with their strong flavour. These same mineral salts go into the recipe for the famous Vichy pastilles, created in the 19th century. Their octagonal shape and minty taste make them a must-have souvenir.

After crossing the park, the Palais des Congrès is admired from the outside. Located in the spa district, it combines historic elegance and modernity. The former casino now houses conference rooms, an auditorium and an opera house. Opened in 1901, this opera house is one of the few Art Nouveau theatres in France. Many events there boost the town’s cultural and economic vitality.

Day 3 ; An Afternoon in Town

Between Architecture and Park

After a meal at the flat, the walk first leads to the Napoleon III chalets. Built in 1863 and 1864 at the emperor’s request, these Swiss and English colonial-style chalets housed him and his retinue during his stays. Nearby, on Rue Alquié, English houses with bow windows lodged the officers of the imperial guard.

Next comes the Célestins spring pavilion, an early 20th-century neoclassical building by Lucien Woog. Its vast oval hall and seven arches open onto the park are charming. Listed as a historic monument in 1986, it is one of the park’s major points of interest.

A pleasant stroll through the Napoleon III park, with a deceptively autumnal look, leads to the Lardy spring. The spring and its gallery pavilion are no longer in use, but the conversion of the Lardy baths into a university centre in 2001 allowed them to be restored. These former third-class baths are said to have had effects on women comparable to champagne.

The visit continues at the Saint-Blaise church. The old church, built in 1714 on the chapel of the Dukes of Bourbon, houses Notre-Dame-des-Malades, a Black Madonna known for her miracles. The new Art Deco church, built between 1925 and 1933, surprises with its interior of pale marble, lapis lazuli and onyx. It contrasts with a more austere exterior.

Back in the park, the bandstand and the horseshoe gallery, designed by Charles Le Cœur in 1902, complete the walk.

In the late afternoon, the Grand Établissement Thermal hosts an edition of the Portrait(s) photography festival.

Day 4 ; Between River and Forest

After a lie-in, the fine weather invites a walk along the Allier, which marks Vichy’s western boundary. In the past, the river did not follow a single channel, and its course only became straight in 1860.

In 1963, the creation of the Lac d’Allier, an artificial lake, enriched the landscape. The six-kilometre walk links the Pont Jacques-Chirac to the Pont-Barrage de l’Europe. A pleasant waterside stroll, which can also be done by bike.

On arrival, Au Fidèle Berger, with its Belle Époque charm, serves simple and effective food.

A final exploration of the streets allows for a few last photos.

The last evening is spent at La Brasserie des Artistes, an iconic venue with 1920s-inspired decor. Its indulgent food makes it a real favourite.

Vichy ; 72 Restorative Hours

A Weekend in Vichy Worth Repeating

Vichy charms well beyond expectations. Timeless, inimitable and captivating, the town delights in many ways, despite major works. A next stay will allow discovering what is left to see, such as the opera house. And why not enjoy a spa cure, in healing water renowned for 2,000 years.

Planning a Weekend in Vichy

From Lausanne, Vichy is about four hours’ drive away, via Geneva and Lyon. By train, a connection in Lyon or Paris also gets you there. Once there, the town centre and parks are easy to explore on foot or by bike. Spring and summer bring the most beautiful colours to the gardens and the banks of the Allier. The tourist office also offers guided tours to learn more about the town’s spa history. A weekend in Vichy is enough for a first glimpse, but the town soon invites a return.

France definitely holds lovely surprises, as on a gourmet trip to Alsace (in French).

Vichy Mon Amour

Vichy