The Rhône ; Vineyards from Saint-Joseph to Lirac

Between hills and valleys, the Rhône vineyards reveal their treasures, from Saint-Joseph to Lirac.

The Rhône Vineyards ; from Saint-Joseph to Lirac

Lirac, a Historic Appellation

This three-day stay dives into the heart of the Rhône vineyards, with a focus on the Lirac appellation. Recognised as an AOC in 1947, it covers more than 700 hectares. Its Mediterranean climate and sunny terroir favour great diversity. Lirac produces reds with powerful tannins, fine and fresh whites, and lively, aromatic rosés.

From Lyon to the Northern Rhône Vineyards

The adventure begins in Lyon, at the Brasserie L’Est. This Maisons Bocuse address occupies the former Brotteaux station and serves food that invites travel. A small train runs along the restaurant and makes the place truly original. The meal introduces the Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné. Founded in 1834, it brings together the prestigious terroirs of the Hermitage hill and the Rhône valley.

This first tasting introduces several grands crus and gets the palate used to wine again. This drink has a unique character and a singular world, whose codes reveal themselves little by little. Next stop is the domaine André Perret, in Verlieu, in the commune of Chavanay. The estate grows about 13 hectares of vines on the right bank of the Rhône. It notably produces Condrieu and Saint-Joseph wines with unique aromas, the fruit of meticulous winemaking. For a novice palate, though, taming red wine remains a perilous exercise.

At the end of the day, the Fac&Spera hotel, in Tain-l’Hermitage, welcomes travellers. Dinner takes place at the Auberge de Crussol, a real highlight of the stay. At the foot of the castle of the same name, the inn offers an authentic setting. It overlooks the Rhône valley and the slopes of Saint-Péray and Cornas. An assortment of regional wines rounds off the evening beautifully.

A Thousand-Year Wine History

In the Heart of the Rhône Vineyards ; the Winemakers’ Passion

The second day begins at the Domaine Courbis, in Châteaubourg. Since the 16th century, the Courbis family has grown its vines on slopes, notably in Cornas and Saint-Joseph. Resolutely forward-looking, the estate keeps innovating while staying true to its roots. Modern winemaking and manual vineyard work go hand in hand there. After a walk in the vines, lunch takes place at the À Propos restaurant. This friendly, quality address is instantly appealing. The meal is a chance to explore another range of wines, to be enjoyed in moderation. White wines remain the favourites, even if the reds are slowly gaining ground.

The afternoon continues with a walk in the Tavel vineyards, famous for their rosé. The winemakers share the history of the place and their passion. Remembering every detail is not always easy, but the exchange remains rich and fascinating. In the evening, the Logis Auberge de Tavel welcomes visitors for the night. This place of authentic character has had several lives. A former oil mill, it then became a boys’ school before being turned into a hotel-restaurant. The old classroom now serves as the dining room. True to the tradition of the stay, dinner comes with several regional wines. A tough test for a palate still not used to it!

The Rhône Vineyards around Avignon

From Châteauneuf-du-Pape to the Lirac Cru

After a good breakfast, the third and last day begins with the Maison Ogier. Founded in 1859, it is located in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in the heart of the southern Rhône valley. Over the years, the house has deepened its knowledge of terroirs and soils. It thus adapts its work and ageing to each plot. This tasting proves fascinating once again. The codes and countless flavours of wine slowly awaken on a still novice tongue.

The getaway ends at the Maison du Cru Lirac, the appellation’s showcase in the heart of the village. More than 40 producers and merchants present their wines there. Between tasting and encounters, the last glasses blend calm and curiosity. The final stop of the stay, the Sainte-Baume hermitage, lies about 2 km from the village. This cave houses a 17th-century chapel that has become a place of pilgrimage. More than a place of contemplation, it is a peaceful stop, full of gentleness and coolness. The return to Switzerland then leaves from Avignon station.

A delicious stay in the heart of the Rhône vineyards, a land of passion and taste craftsmanship. On the Swiss side, the walk in Lavaux (in French) and the wine tour at Chillon (in French) will appeal to wine lovers.

The Rhône

Article written as part of a collaboration with Rouge Granit

Cover photo credit ; Le Diogourmet Vins