Hungary

Budapest ; Five Days in the Hungarian Capital

Budapest – Cinq jours dans la capitale hongroise

Visiting Budapest in five days means discovering a capital of mixed cultures and eclectic atmosphere. Here is a complete itinerary to explore this pearl of Eastern Europe.

Budapest ; Discovering the Hungarian Capital in Five Days

Day 1 – From Geneva to Budapest

Via the Shoes on the Danube and the Cat Café

This trip to Budapest was a long time coming. Departure finally takes place from Geneva, on an EasyJet flight. After almost two hours in the air, the plane lands in the Hungarian capital. Bus 100E then links the airport to the city centre. Next stop, the flat rented on Airbnb, a magnificent place in light tones.

View of Budapest and the DanubeLight-toned flat in Budapest

To start this trip, nothing beats a walk along the Danube. The river separates Buda, on the west bank, from Pest, on the east bank. First striking stop: the Shoes on the Danube Bank. This memorial honours the Jewish victims shot on the riverbanks during the Second World War. Around sixty pairs of iron shoes stand there. After this moment of history, the walk continues at sunset.

Shoes on the Danube Bank memorialSunset over the Danube in Budapest

At the end of the day, curiosity leads to a cat café. This kind of place divides opinion, but it is hard not to step inside. The place is clean, the staff welcoming and the cats truly beautiful. One drink later, the way back to the flat comes with a smile.

Cat at the Budapest Cat Café

Day 2 – From Parliament to Fisherman’s Bastion

Via the History Museum and Mazel Tov

Breakfast is at Madal Café, a small chain found all over the city. Once refuelled, it is time to explore the neighbourhoods. The architecture of the Hungarian capital charms on every street corner. Each monument has its own identity, and this eclectic mix is charming. Liberty Square is home to a statue of Ronald Reagan and the Soviet War Memorial. Further on, a statue honours Peter Falk, famous for playing Inspector Columbo.

Liberty Square in BudapestStatue of Peter Falk as Inspector Columbo

The Hungarian Parliament

Next comes a monument of considerable size: the Hungarian Parliament. Built from 1885 in Neo-Gothic style, it was inaugurated in 1896. Standing 96 metres tall, it is the largest building in Hungary. It houses the National Assembly and the Holy Crown of Saint Stephen. A guided tour in French of about one hour reveals the halls of this impressive building.

Neo-Gothic facade of the Hungarian ParliamentBudapest Parliament on the banks of the DanubeGrand golden staircase of the Hungarian ParliamentInterior dome of the Budapest ParliamentHall of the Hungarian National AssemblyOrnate corridor of the Hungarian ParliamentStained glass and gilding in the ParliamentArchitectural detail of the Budapest Parliament

On the way out, the Budapest Chocolate Museum is just a few steps away. The perfect chance to taste a few treats and learn more about the history of cocoa. A pleasant chocolatey moment.

Budapest Chocolate MuseumChocolate treats at the Chocolate Museum

For lunch, the choice is Hungarikum Bisztró, a small neighbourhood restaurant serving typical Hungarian dishes. Both the food and the welcome are excellent. A truly authentic moment, with vegetarian options for those who do not eat meat.

Traditional Hungarian dish at Hungarikum BisztróCosy dining room at Hungarikum Bisztró

Budapest History Museum and Fisherman’s Bastion

After this gourmet break, the next stop is Buda and its History Museum. Works of art and paintings trace the country’s history. After a two-hour visit, the walk continues towards Fisherman’s Bastion. On the way, a stop is a must at the Buda Castle Labyrinth. These dark tunnels stretch beneath Castle Hill. A visit best avoided by claustrophobes.

Buda Castle, home of the History MuseumWorks of art at the Budapest History MuseumPaintings on display at the History MuseumTunnels of the Buda Castle LabyrinthDark corridor of the Budapest LabyrinthLanes of the Buda Castle district

Once outside, Fisherman’s Bastion offers another view of the city. The view is magnificent, especially in bright sunshine. Its Neo-Romanesque architecture, with its white turrets, wins you over instantly.

White turrets of Fisherman's BastionView of Parliament from Fisherman's BastionNeo-Romanesque arcades of Fisherman's Bastion

The day ends at Mazel Tov, a restaurant hugely popular on social media. Booking is wise, as it is full even on weekdays. To end the evening in style, next comes Szimpla Kert, one of the capital’s famous ruin bars. These alternative venues usually set up in old abandoned buildings.

Mazel Tov restaurant in BudapestSzimpla Kert ruin bar and its alternative decor

Budapest ; Day 3 – From Széchenyi Baths to Karavan Street Food

Via the House of Terror and the Tuk Tuk Bar

This third day starts by metro, heading for the Széchenyi Baths. Budapest has many thermal baths, but Széchenyi is among the largest in Europe. The complex has 18 pools, three of them outdoors. Despite gloomy weather, the hot water and bubbles work their magic. After three hours of relaxation, a short visit to nearby Vajdahunyad Castle is a must. Then back to the city centre by metro.

Outdoor pool at Széchenyi BathsYellow facade of Széchenyi BathsHot water and steam at the Budapest bathsArchitecture of Széchenyi BathsVajdahunyad Castle in City Park

The afternoon continues at the House of Terror. This museum traces the history of the fascist and communist regimes in Hungary. The visit is particularly heavy and moving. Out of respect for the victims, only the entrance was photographed.

Entrance to the House of Terror in Budapest

To find some lightness again, the next stop is the Flipper Múzeum. As soon as the door opens, the trip goes back to the eighties. The hall is packed with pinball machines and old arcade games. Two hours chasing high scores do wonders for morale. Dinner is then at Karavan Street Food. This spot gathers fast food stalls in a friendly atmosphere. The evening ends at the Chupito Bar and the Tuk Tuk Bar, over a few cocktails.

Pinball hall at the Flipper MúzeumOld arcade games from the eightiesCocktail at the Tuk Tuk Bar in Budapest

Day 4 – From the Central Market Hall to the Cave Church

Via St Stephen’s Basilica and a Danube Cruise

This last full day begins with a famous chimney cake. This chimney-shaped pastry is very popular in Hungary and Eastern Europe. Next comes the Central Market Hall and its eclectic market. Food stalls and souvenirs stand side by side. Paprika, one of Hungary’s prides, makes an ideal souvenir. Another national pride, the Rubik’s Cube was invented by Hungarian Ernő Rubik. The walk continues to the Cave Church, carved into the rock of Gellért Hill. A powerful and unique moment.

Chimney cake, a chimney-shaped Hungarian pastryBudapest Central Market HallHungarian paprika sold at the marketSouvenir stalls at the Central Market HallCave Church carved into Gellért Hill

Last monument of the day: St Stephen’s Basilica, in Pest. Its dome is simply extraordinary. Inside, a chapel to the left of the altar houses the Holy Right. This is the mummified right hand of Saint Stephen, first king of Hungary. The dome also offers a clear panorama over the city. After some rest, the banks of the Danube await for a night cruise. For one hour, the main monuments appear lit up. A glass of sparkling wine accompanies the ride, cradled by a light breeze. The evening ends with a hearty Hungarian meal, stars in the eyes.

Facade of St Stephen's Basilica in BudapestInterior dome of St Stephen's BasilicaGolden nave of the basilica in PestPanorama of Budapest from the basilica domeParliament lit up during a night cruiseChain Bridge at night on the Danube

Day 5 – From the New York Café to the Great Synagogue of Budapest

All good things come to an end. For this last morning, luxury takes centre stage at the New York Café with a coffee decorated with 24-carat gold. The hall, adorned with gilding and mouldings, is stunning. A timeless moment before the last visit. Finally, the Great Synagogue on Dohány Street, the largest in Europe. It also ranks among the largest in the world. Out of respect for this sacred place, the visit is done wearing a kippah. A lovely discovery of part of Jewish history. The bus then heads back to the airport for the return flight.

Golden hall of the New York Café in BudapestCoffee decorated with 24-carat goldFacade of the Great Synagogue on Dohány StreetInterior of the Great Synagogue of BudapestLast view of Budapest before departure

This first stay in Hungary reveals a still unknown part of Eastern Europe. Every corner of the city charms, in the company of a best friend just as captivated. A huge thank you to him for organising this trip with an iron fist. For other five-day getaways, Berlin (in French) and London (in French) also offer great itineraries.

Budapest
Practical info[]
Basilique Saint-ÉtienneSzent István tér 1, 1051 BudapestGetting there : Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út
Bastion des pêcheurs1014 BudapestGetting there : Batthyány tér
Chaussures au bord du Danube1054 BudapestGetting there : Kossuth Lajos tér
Flipper MúzeumRadnóti Miklós utca 18, 1137 BudapestGetting there : Nyugati pályaudvar
Gellért-hegyi BarlangSzent Gellért rakpart 1, 1114 BudapestGetting there : Szent Gellért tér – Műegyetem
Grande synagogue de BudapestDohány utca 2, 1074 BudapestGetting there : Astoria
Halles centrales1093 BudapestGetting there : Fővám tér
Hungarikum BisztróSteindl Imre utca 13, 1051 BudapestGetting there : Kossuth Lajos tér
Karavan Street FoodKazinczy utca 18, 1075 BudapestGetting there : Astoria
Labyrinthe du château de BudaÚri utca 9, 1014 BudapestGetting there : Szent György tér
Maison de la TerreurAndrássy út 60, 1062 BudapestGetting there : Vörösmarty utca
Mazel TovAkácfa utca 47, 1073 BudapestGetting there : Blaha Lujza tér
Musée du chocolatKossuth Lajos tér 10, 1055 BudapestGetting there : Kossuth Lajos tér
Musée historique de BudapestSzent György tér 2, 1014 BudapestGetting there : Clark Ádám tér
New York CaféErzsébet körút 9-11, 1074 BudapestGetting there : Blaha Lujza tér
Parlement hongroisKossuth Lajos tér 1-3, 1055 BudapestGetting there : Kossuth Lajos tér
Szimpla KertKazinczy utca 14, 1075 BudapestGetting there : Astoria
Thermes SzéchenyiÁllatkerti körút 9-11, 1146 BudapestGetting there : Széchenyi fürdő
Tuk Tuk BarPaulay Ede utca 31, 1061 BudapestGetting there : Opera
All addresses in Budapest in the address book ›

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